Power for Accessories

[Kazz5]

OK, I'm a real hacknoob at internal audio and accessory installs. I do want to get some stuff professionally done, but I have a real basic question.

Where the hell does everyone source power for their accessories?

Head units, gauges, hard-wired radar detectors, etc. all require some source of power. They should be a source that doesn't already have a fuse in-line and use their own appropriate fuse, I understand.

There are ways of getting into the fuse box, etc., to share a slot with, say, the radio's basic power. Some hack, into, say, the lighter socket's power. But is there a real way to do this so it's clean, dependable, and easy to modify later as you add/change accessories?

Thanks for any and all advice.

[benny z]

you can run a small (16g) wire w/ a simple ring terminal directly from the battery if you are looking for a constant power source. just be sure to use the appropriately-sized fuse.

[Kazz5]

Nope, looking for ignition-switched, actually, in this case. I would hope there's a lead or something somewhere I can run to multiple accessories, each with their own fuse in their own line...

[RacerX11]

Some cars have unused spaces in the fuse box for optional equipment. If you can go this route, it will be the cleanest, most reliable way to go.

[Booztd 3]

Nope, looking for ignition-switched, actually, in this case. I would hope there's a lead or something somewhere I can run to multiple accessories, each with their own fuse in their own line...

Ignition switched is easy.......just pop off the column cover, and you should see several large gauge wires there.....

A few of the wires will be.....Constant 12V, Ign 1, Ign 2, Starter...etc

Now you need to figure out when you want the accessories to turn on. A stereo for example comes on with ignition 1.......so if you want your after market device (such as an electrical gauge or something) to come on, you'll just tap into the wire thats IGN 1.

To test for IGN 1, take your volt meter, and find the harness that all those big wires go into....turn the car onto IGN 1, and measure which wires have 12V. Now turn the IGN off, and find the one out of the previously found wires, which doesnt have 12V......theres your IGN 1 wire....

[r6civic]

couldnt have said it better myself. thats the ticket.

[dnace]

My car came with spare plug i9n slots in the fuse box for every option. w/ Lights, constant power, w/ ignition, and with car on. Go honda!

[Emanuel]

My car came with spare plug i9n slots in the fuse box for every option. w/ Lights, constant power, w/ ignition, and with car on. Go honda!

most cares have space for spare fuse, but be carefully with you Honda, the ELD just takes so much, before you need a whole new fuse box

[dnace]

most cares have space for spare fuse, but be carefully with you Honda, the ELD just takes so much, before you need a whole new fuse box

yeah, its not really spare fuses though. they have male leads that I can just plug stuff in.

[Kazz5]

Ignition switched is easy.......just pop off the column cover, and you should see several large gauge wires there.....

A few of the wires will be.....Constant 12V, Ign 1, Ign 2, Starter...etc

Now you need to figure out when you want the accessories to turn on. A stereo for example comes on with ignition 1.......so if you want your after market device (such as an electrical gauge or something) to come on, you'll just tap into the wire thats IGN 1.

To test for IGN 1, take your volt meter, and find the harness that all those big wires go into....turn the car onto IGN 1, and measure which wires have 12V. Now turn the IGN off, and find the one out of the previously found wires, which doesnt have 12V......theres your IGN 1 wire....

Awesome! Thanks.